My third (and so far final) Helmi was a speed make when I realized I had nothing that I could wear to a memorial service. I used some rayon ikat from Piedmont Fabrics where I also found buttons for it.
I used French seams throughout except at the waist seam which I bias bound. The seam allowance on Helmi is only 3/8" so that made a French seam that would catch the button placket at the waist to require more precision that I wanted to attempt. I did a pretty poor job on the French seams in general, partially because the smaller seam allowance didn't give a lot of wiggle room for grading and because this fabric frayed ridiculously. On a couple of the seams, I caught so many loose threads in the exterior seam that I had to resew it with a slightly larger seam allowance. However, after doing so much bias binding, French seams feel super quick and easy!
On this Helmi, I decided not to worry about pattern placement/matching and not to add in-seam pockets. I regretted both decisions. I keep feeling for pockets when I wear this and I think the location of the pattern on the collar is super odd.
I don't think I've mentioned on my other Helmi posts that I have done the construction out of order each time. Basically, I have fully constructed the sleeves and skirt and then gone back to construct the bodice. On the first one, I did this because I wanted some easy warm-up sewing before tackling the new-to-me button placket and collar. (I hadn't sewn for about 2 months when I started that one.). I really enjoyed that construction order because the dress is almost entirely finished once you get through the tricky bits of the collar, with only the set-in sleeves and waist hem to finish.
This was the Helmi where I used a type of fabric that was recommended for the pattern, unlike my first two. Despite really loving this fabric, I don't love the final product. For me, I think this pattern actually benefits from a fabric that has more structure and less drape even though that's not what the pattern designers intended. I also got lazy about stay stitching on this one, which turned out to be a poor choice with this fabric since the collar stretched out to be noticeably larger than the neck.
Pattern: Helmi Tunic Dress by Named Patterns
Fabric: Rayon ikat from Piedmont Fabrics; leftover scraps of Leah Duncan Art Gallery voile for bias strips.
Thread: Gutermann Mara 100
Buttons: purchased at Piedmont Fabrics
Needles: Microtex 70/10
Modifications: French seams except at waist where bias bound; Folded skirt hem over twice; construction order
Things I'll change next time: Pattern placement on collar; add pockets; staystitch